Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Selby - 186

Downtown Healdsburg is a lovely place to visit; full of quaint shops, delightful art galleries, enticing restaurants, and a handful of tasting rooms. However, if you limit your jaunting to only the square, you will undoubtedly miss one of the best selections of wines -- not only in the neighborhood -- but in California. Selby Winery has their tasting room a few blocks off the main shopping drag and is definitely worth looking for; almost hidden by overgrown trees just a few doors down from the fire station.

I was there on a week day and the tasting room was bustling! Full to the brim, Amanda was aptly handling the large crowd. I was patient and waited for it to quiet down. I was fortunate to taste through the entire line-up of Selby wines for a related article I've been working on, as well as having the opportunity of meeting Susie Selby in person.

She is diminutive in stature and has a personal warmth that immediately exudes charm and grace. She initially came to Northern California to help her father out in a small custom-crush winery (those are the kind where serious amateurs make wine for fun). Susie got so enamored with her father's obsession, that it encouraged her to get a job in a local tasting room. When the bug really hit her, she began serious studies while working as a cellar rat, eventually becoming an assistant winemaker. Now with her her own label, she is entirely self-taught, learning the entire wine industry from the ground up, literally.

Since her first vintage in 1993, she has built a reputation that includes having her wine served at the White House on multiple occasions. Robert Redford is so impressed with her winemaking style that she has been contracted to produce the Chardonnay for Redford's Sundance resort. She has a tasting room (decorated with fabulous art by Clay Vajgrt), and a thriving winery producing 15,000 cases. What impressed me more than anything is the overall quality and integrity of the wine and the fact that Susie is not afraid to take chances as is depicted in experiments along the likes of a Malbec and a Syrah rosé, wines that are just plain fun to drink.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc - Crisp, clear kiwi and pineapple tones without being harsh or strident. $13.00

2004 Rosé of Syrah - The color of a sparkling, almandine garnet. An enchanting rosé because of its varietal integrity, Laura makes this wine solely because she likes to drink it (god bless her!). Explosive cranberry and pomegranate flavors behind a fresh, clean berry aromas with hints of white flowers. Nothing cloying or sweet, this wine is clean, fresh, and crisp. $13.00

2004 Chardonnay, Russian River - Intense nose of kiwi and white melon with a whisper of white peach. Crisp entry and some cream on the mid-palate that is opulent and engaging. Going away from the more butter-rich Clone 4, this is a wine made from the muscat chard of Dijon and Spring Mountain. $28.00

2004 Pinot Noir, Russian River - Heady perfumey aromas of cinnamon, clove, and cherry. The mouth fills with spicy, cinnamon-covered red hots that is teasing and playful. The spicy fruit flavors are well-defined and invigorating. $32.00

2002 Malbec, Alexander Valley - I am such a huge Malbec fan and this does not fail to impress. Chewy tobacco with layers of soy and miso in the nose. The flavors are redolent with dark fruit, tiered with a rich mineral core. $28.00

2002 Merlot, Sonoma County - With 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc. Redolent nose of black cherry and licorice with a whisper of dried herbs in the back of the nostrils. Black fruit and black pepper enter the mouth, teasing with a touch of plum liqueur. Big, chewy entry is smooth in the center with a perfectly balanced finish. $24.00

2002 Syrah, Sonoma County - 4% Viognier provides a hint of sweetness in this rich, sweet boysenberry wine. Jammy entry with a core of licorice and spice, medium-bodied and easy to drink. $24.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County - 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. Medium-bodied, terroir-driven aromas show herbs and cherries. Rich, sweet entry is smooth and toasty. Not overly complex or chewy, but great body and flavors. $24.00

2002 Zinfandel, Sonoma County - From 65 year old vines. Rich vanilla tones in a smooth, dark entry that displays sultry plum and spice notes. Jammy, spicy, toasty, and a hint of earth. $24.00

2002 Dry Creek Syrah, Vesenaz Vineyard - Only 150 cases made. Terroir-driven aromas with a heady liqueur of blackberry. Inky black red with an even, spicy core and supple, velvety finish. $32.00

2002 Sonoma County Zinfandel, Bobcat Vineyard - Leaving the grapes on the vines a little longer than usual, this is only the fourth vintage of this wine which has a tiny amount of residual sugar. Dark and spicy, the smooth and velvety mouthfeel is ever so slightly sweet, but not enough to coat the teeth. Smooth and intense, the flavors are defined and intense; quintessential zinfandel and after most of the tasting, a culmination in the example of the style that is Susie's wine. $32.00

2000 Sweet Cindy - This wine is an homage to Susie's dearly departed sister-in-law, Cindy. It is a blend of late-harvest Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc with grapes that are fully botrysized. Intense, dark gold orange color, there are hints of earthy, rustic honey with a core of pear. While the wine is sweet, there is a heightened acidity that provides perfect balance and clean flavor.  A bargain at $12.00

Selby Winery ~ 215 Center Street ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707-431-1288
$5.00 for four tastes, although many additional bottles are often open and offered.

Paradise Ridge - 185

Barbara Drady, who owns Affairs of the Vine and the famous Wine Boot Camp, asked me to help her out this week run a corporate training, team-building seminar which is impressive on its own right. Ms. Drady sets these events up at various wineries but this particular training seminar was being held a winery I had yet to blog, Paradise Ridge Vineyards and Winery -- and what better excuse for me than to go early and check it out!

Getting to Paradise Ridge is a fascinating trip in that one drives around the recently-developed foothills of Santa Rosa, through industrial parks and track homes, by a large hospital and several hotels. Then there is a large, bent-metal sign with a road that suddenly manifests cows as voyeurs on your journey. Meandering and rugged, the landscape is suddenly rural, boasting large trees and native chaparral. Shockingly, set amongst the drying grass and native evergreens, sits a very bizarre sculpture -- a large bottle shaped out of copper or bronze from which prodtrudes a branch of tubes, culminating in bright blue hands... How very odd, one thinks. For me, how very exciting! I love stumbling on art, especially in unexpected places. As you continue to drive towards the winery, the collection grows as a large field on your left displays two 8-foot high pieces. Then another on your right - and another!

Have I discovered a secret garden of visual delights? Apparently so, but it is hardly a secret. Paradise Ridge's owners, Dr. Walter Byck and his wife Marijke Byck-Hoenselarrs have established this Sculpture Grove as an extension of the winery experience. From Gretchen Giles' article in Metroactive, "Involving some 12 Sonoma County arts organizations and 17 separate events... "Spectrum" - "Sculpture Sonoma" was conceived to be by artists, for artists. Byck and his wife asked more than 120 local sculptors to name those North Bay artists who most influenced them and whose work they most admired. From that list came the slate of professionals gathered in the "Spectrum" show. "Rather than let a curator decide, I let the artists decide," Byck says." Now here a reason to go back yearly! These are are not permanent sculptures, but a yearly installation.

Continuing through the expansive art collection, the road  culminates atop a hill where the winery tasting room sits alongside a few more additional permanent sculpture installations. However, an even better surprise awaited me. I had all this great art, I thought, how could it get better?

History! That's how... Paradise Ridge sits on the site that was once the historic Fountain Grove winery, noted for having been established and run by Kanaye Nagasawa, the distinguished Japanese winemaker in 1875. The champagne cellar of the current building houses archival pictures and a few artifacts and is a must-visit location for anyone fascinated with pre-Prohibition California wineries.

The Paradise Ridge tasting room is located on the upper floor of the two-story building. Practical, it is a room that is often utilized by wedding parties (and where our corporate event took place) so the tasting room easily expands into a banquet area. It has a fabulous view of the surrounding Santa Rosa valley and offers yet another surprise -- a sparkling wine!

1999 Blanc de Blanc - Only available at the winery, a slightly toasted, yeasty nose shocks with a clean, bright mouth entry of pineapple and lychee fruit. Slightly creamy finish delights. $25.95

2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Grandview Vineyard - Their first segue into the screw-top model of closures. Fruit forward with pineapple, pink citrus, and honey blossom, the dry, crisp entry is surprisingly round. The aromas hinted towards a strident harsh wine but the mouth feel is lush, round, and easy to drink. $21.95

2002 Syrah, Ladi's Ranch - Massive wild berries sits at the core with a whisper of spice in the nose. Medium-bodied, smooth and supple tannins continue the berry flavors with tiers of mineral and sage. $25.95

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rockpile Vineyard - Young wine showing green olive and tobacco. $33.00

2002 Zinfandel, Hoenselaars Vineyard -  Dense, dark aromas of sweet black licorice and black plum. Juicy and smooth with a well-integrated structure that will easily age. $25.95

2002 Inspirations - A fabulously expressive wine of 50% Petite Verdot and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. Jammy and Petite Sirah-like in its dark blueberry core, but with considerably more richness. Smooth and velvety, this is a fascinating blend that is exceptionally easy to drink and appreciate. $40.00

Paradise Ridge ~ 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95403 ~ 707-528-9463
No charge for tasting.

Benziger - 182

When you go to Benziger, be prepared for a long visit as there is lots to do here. For starters, this is a winery that is far off the main drag from other Sonoma wineries so getting there is a journey. It is located up a small, windy mountain road surrounded by secluded mountain residences. Dozens of buildings greet the visitor after passing through the white picket fence in a theme park-like atmosphere of gingerbread houses, passenger trams,and directional signs.

It is hard to not be charmed with an outhouse and as a winery, Offering charm, instruction, and great fun, I arrived too late in the date, but apparently the multi-passenger trams run several times a day and offer a 45-minute vineyard, garden, and wildlife sanctuary tour. Self-guided walking tours exist in adjacent gardens to show off what makes Benziger really special: Certified Organic and Biodynamic wines.

These are big buzzwords in the industry these days and I'm not going to provide an entire dissertation, but will give you a link: here. Suffice to say I have a growing appreciation for wineries promoting organic growing practices producing biodynamic wine. There are many doing it on a small scale, but here is an opportunity to see it on a large scale and taste multiple examples. Benziger is large, producing 176,000 cases of wine (not ALL biodynamic) and several dozen varietals including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, multiple blends, and a sweet wine. I was selective in my tasting:

2000 Reserve Pinot Noir - 65% of the grapes come from the Bien Nacido Vineyards in the Santa Maria area of Santa Barbara and 35% from the Bodega area; Sterling Little Vineyards.. Huge, spicy nose with core of raspberry and cherry. Even and balanced, the smooth mouthfeel is defined and balanced. Predominately berry in its presentation. $37.00

2002 Bien Nacido Syrah - Medium-bodied, a dichotomy of aromas of boysenberry and a touch of hospital do not prepare for the intensely smooth, integrated mouth entry. Integrated and complex with a touch of sage on the finish. $37.00

2002 Petite Sirah, McNab Ranch, Mendocino - Spicy, dark blueberry liqueur in the small-production wine (380 cases). Surprisingly easy to drink, where many this young are bombs, this medium-bodied wine starts a little sweet, intensifies in the mid-palate, and finishes with a happy little bite of spice. $35.00

2003 Estate Sonoma Mountain Red - 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. Dark cherry, cocoa, and tobacco aromas. Warm, soft entry shows deep, integrated terroir-driven notes with defined earthy components. $49.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County - This wine has been blended from grapes that come from four different vineyards throughout Sonoma. Immediate bouquet of cedar and eucalyptus complements with dark fruit flavors. Smooth and velvety, easy tannins are supple and expressive. $42.00

2002 Tribute - Their flagship wine dedicated to Helen and Bruno Benziger, this wine is darkly intense with black cherry and tobacco. Smooth erotic with earthy qualities. The feelings in the mouth are redolent with smooth tannins and hints of smoke. The finish is long and supple. $75.00

Benziger ~ 1883 London Ranch Road ~ Sonoma ~ Ca ~ 95442 ~ 707-935-3000
Three different tasting menus available, five tastes each;
$5.00 for their large production family wines
$10.00 for reserve and single vineyard wines
$10.00 for biodynamic and premiere wines

Simon Levi - Cuttings Wharf - Pour la Vie - 180

Simon Levi Cellars is located on the main road that stretches between Santa Rosa and Sonoma in a community known as Kenwood. It is a small, two-lane road peppered with small tasting rooms, tiny restaurants, and an occasional shop or two. One of the main draws for me, after driving past a number of times, was a sign that said Champagne.   Now I know darn well that Champagne is made in France and that California makes sparkling wine, but vernacular aside, wine with bubbles is a really great thing, whether it is sparkling from California, Prosecco from Italy, Champagne from France, or Cava from Spain. I also tend to forget that there are more and more wineries producing sparkling wine, getting into my own rut of drinking from my personal Big 5 (Chandon, Mumm, Taittinger, J, and Schramsburg).

The building is very reminiscent of an old-style school house; probably because it was red and shingled and quaint. A few picnic tables on the surrounding wooden deck invite guests to relax and stay a while. While there, taste from four different labels. The three made under the Simon Levi auspices is SLC (Simon Levi Cellars), Cuttings Wharf, and Pour la Vie. (The fourth label will be its own blog entry.)

The Pour la Vie label is the name given to the sparkling wines and is made in three flavors; a Grand Cuvee, Almondine, and Framboise. I wanted to get a good cross reference to all the offerings and did not bother tasting the almond or raspberry sparkling, although others in the tasting room seemed to enjoyed it. The tasting room has some lovely things as well -- take a look at the suspended model train that runs above the pouring station! Open and spacious with some wonderful discoveries to be had.

2003 Cuttings Wharf Chardonnay - From Carneros fruit. Creamy tropical, kiwi nose with a bright, crisp entry. Not overly buttery or oaky, this fruity, balanced wine is easy to drink. $25.00

2002 Cuttings Wharf Pinot Noir - Light red color belies with intense, fruit-forward, fresh aromas of cherry and strawberry. Substantially more body and structure in the mouth with a defined, sculpted mineral mid-palate. $25.00

2003 Simon Levi Dry Creek Syrah - Dark, plummy colored wine. Smoke and candy dominate the nose. A tad hot on the mouth entry, flavors of spice and earthy mint tease until the slightly dry finish. $28.00

NV Pour la Via Grand Cuvee - 100% Chardonnay. Nutty, creamy, and slightly sweet on entry (probably because I was tasting it after the reds). Hints of light kiwi. $18.00

Simon Levi Cellars ~ 9380 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5070
No charge to taste.

Ravenswood - 175

Over a dozen years ago, when I was a wine neophyte, Ravenswood was one of the first wineries I ever visited. For me, the initial draw was the logo. I was heavily involved in the Renaissance Faire and the Celtic triskelion design of three black ravens twisted in on themselves was akin to many Irish-themed tattoos which was as prevalent in the 80s as tribal tattoos are now. Logo aside, there was also a draw to a winery producing a number of vineyard-specific Zinfandels with a nifty catch phrase, No Wimpy Wines. Zinfandel was the thrust of the business and a few other varietals were made. If memory serves, their production level was in the 20,000 to 30,000 case range...

A lot has changed for Ravenswood. Their case production now tops one million and the company is now owned by one of the largest international wine conglomerates on the planet, Constellation Brands. Fortunately, the brainchild and original winemaker behind Ravenswood, Joel Peterson, is still at the helm of the winemaking team.

The tasting room is practically exactly the same today as it was when I visited it 15 years ago. The staff is gregarious and helpful and while I believe that are a few misses in some of the overall line up of their production, there is still some fabulous wines to be had. There are a variety of tasting levels that will allow each visitor to explore their own personal interests.

2002 Icon - 87% Syrah, 9% Grenache, 4% Mourvedre. A really nice daily drinker for the price point. Juicy aroma of meat, black pepper, and dark purple fruit. Brambleberry flavors coat the mouth with a slightly sweet finish of spice. $20.00

2003 Big River Zinfandel, Alexander Valley - 1,500 cases made. Massive fruit bomb in a medium-bodied Zin. Ruby port aromas of concentrated purple fruit; plum, berries, and currants. Full, rich mouth entry that is smooth and balanced. $32.00

2002 Sangiacomo Merlot - 500 cases made. Noticeable green bell pepper and minerals in the nose. Bright cherry flavors that deepens to show a more herbal mid-palate. The finish paled from the entry. $27.50

2001 Petite Sirah, Sonoma - 400 cases made. Dark plummy bouquet with a layer of lighter blueberry tone. Rich entry expanding to show black pepper, cocoa, and a spicy dark plum finish.

Ravenswood ~ 18701 Gehricke Road ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 707-933-2332

J Vineyards & Winery - 166

Frequent readers will recall how impressed I was with Mayo and their sumptuous food pairing. Working hard at experimenting and learning about good food and wine pairings, I am becoming more and more impressed with those wineries that go the extra step to showcase their wines with a savory morsel or two. And I'm not talking just a glorified cheese plate. Cheese plates are good and all that, but can actually detract from a wine by virtue of the fact that cheese coats your tongue and can conflict with a wine's taste. And I'm a huge cheese proponent.

But arriving at J, which shares a large entrance way with Rodney Strong, I had no idea that food was what lay in store for me. I was simply impressed with the entrance; a bridge over a small creek leading to the front door. The building itself is partially overgrown with vines and while the landscaping seems wild and unkempt, actually alludes to a state of elegance and artistry that await within.

There are a number of levels of tastings available at J and all of them involve food pairings. Not having an appointment for a sit-down tasting, the main retail room and bar is the beginning of what is a truly exciting experience. Of course the artist in me could not help but excited by the massive wall which stands behind the bar. Produced by Gordon Heuther, the giant wall is a seemingly constructed slab of brushed copper. Irregular and jagged holes exist through which protrude sharp, icy slabs of clear glass. Trying to concentrate on my wine, I was drawn to the wall and realized later that it was Heuther's work at Artesa Winery that had first drawn me to his work.

While gazing at the wall, a nice young man behind the counter started the tasting service. This was where the pairings came into play and surprised and enticed. Starting with their signature sparkling wine, the 1999 J Vintage Brut ($30.00) was served with small, crispy cups filled with shrimp ceviche. The wine is a cuvée of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay grapes. The wine had hints of white stonefruit on the nose. White pear presents itself more in the mouth with a rich, creamy mouthfeel that sweetens when paired with the slightly spicy ceviche. A brilliant pairing.   

While a more substantial pairing is available in a sit-down setting in the adjacent, Bubble Room, I continued with our progress. The second food and wine combination was a miniature cherry tomato, its top third sliced off to accommodate a dollop of rich, creamy hummus made with McEvoy Ranch olive oil paired with a 2004 J. Viognier, Alexander Valley ($30.00). Yet another inspiration. I somewhat suspected that the Viognier would be too sweet for the acidity of the tomato.  The Viognier is slightly viscous with a light peachy color, providing sweet, crisp aromas of orange blossoms, peach, and white flowers. The mouth entry was initially exotic with a touch of sweetness. What surprised me was how the hummus killed the sweetness and expanded the wine's richer flavors. Alternately, the wine tamed the smokiness in the hummus.

The next step in our tasting involved walking upstairs to a small, dark alcove that overlooks the production area. The third in our tasting series was a 2003 J Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($28.00) paired with small ovals of creamy polenta topped with sautéed crimini mushrooms which were cooked in a Pinot Noir reduction. The polenta had been prepared with a bit of jack cheese and the earthiness of the mushrooms was the perfect complement to the Pinot. The wine itself was a classic offering showing dark cherry and a hint of floral. The fruit flavors seemed more concentrated with the initial mouth entry and the earthiness expanded with the mushroom flavors from the polenta.

The last of our four-part tasting was a soon-to-be-discontinued 2003 J Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($35.00). It seems this was the third production of a Zinfandel and each time, the fruit had to be sourced from different growers and that a consistent supplier never materialized. The Zinfandel was served with small crostini of Fromage Fort, a very creamy, strong-tasting cheese that had been piped onto the toasts, topped with thin slivers of Coppa salami. The wine is delightfully spicy with white pepper and cinnamon with a medium bodied core of dark red fruit. The finish showed a hint of smokiness and all the rich flavors, well integrated and balanced, paired perfectly with the strong, spicy bite of the cheese; the saltiness of the salami counter-balancing the pepper in the wine.

Truly a grand adventure to be had for a mere $12.00. The Bubble Room tastings are slightly more expensive; $35.00 for the sparkling vertical or $25.00 for the Pinot Noir vertical. Must go back often, as the menu changes seasonally, to try the others.

J Vineyards & Winery ~ 11447 Old Redwood Highway ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707-431-3646

Rodney Strong - 165

Rodney Strong Vineyards' facilities shares a sweeping roundabout driveway with J Vineyards. I wasn't exactly sure if they shared corporate ownership or not, but the folks in both facilities assure me that they are separate companies and all they share is a grandiose driveway.  I'm sorry that my photographs of the interior were so dark and fuzzy. It is a very impressive complex with the tasting room centered around a walk-way of historical and wine-making information.

It is a facilities that sees a lot of guests and the layout is conducive to a high-traffic pattern. The walls that surround the tasting room not includes history of the Rodney Strong empire (extensive), but also information about the various appellations, and direct view of the expansive two-story high barrels. A worthy visit for one of the larger wineries in Sonoma County.

2004 Charlotte's Home Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County - Lighter and more crisp than most with clean white melon aromas. Tight entry of grass and herbs with a lemony finish that is slightly acidic. $14.00

2003 Russian River Pinot Noir, Jane's Vineyard, Russian River Valley - Medium-bodied berry aromas effusive with freshness and a tease orange rind. Deeper mouth entry than the aromas portend with a few hints of chocolate. $19.00

2002 Reserve Pinot Noir, Jane's Vineyard, Russian River Valley - Decidedly earthier and more substantial than its predecessor. Rich dark berries and integrated earth aromas with a soft, supple mouth entry. Heightened mineral tones in the mid-palate and luscious, dark fruit finish. $35.00

2000 Symmetry Red Meritage, Alexander Valley - 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merot, 11% Cabernet Franc. Dark, black brambleberry with a layer of green bell pepper and dusty leafy twig aromas. Tight mouth feel, with some oak and plum, but needing more time. $55.00

Rodney Strong Vineyards ~ 11455 Old Redwood Highway ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 800-678-4763

Chateau St. Jean - 152

Château St. Jean ranks among the highest for quality Chardonnay. Just ask anyone who likes Chardonnay... Okay, I'm not a huge Chardonnay fan but I found many things to like at Château St. Jean. Perhaps it was the atmosphere or the congeniality. Perhaps it was because there is a sense of history or because I was weak and actually bought something from the gift shop. Whatever it was, I have a fine memory of my time at Château St. Jean.

Wine aside, the estate property is absolutely stunning. There are gardens that you have to walk through to get to the visitor's center which offer many exceptional vantage points for photography or for simply relaxing by one of the several ponds. The "Château" itself was built by the Goff family in the 1920s and has been lovingly restored and is where some of the offices exist as well as the Reserve Room tasting area.

Apparently if you are part of the Reserve Club, you can have access to a private terraced seating area for individual, table-side service. This picture was taken through a window of the Château, as though I was a Peeping Tom, peering at two lucky recipients of a private tasting. I'll be they also got to taste the wines I would have preferred to taste; Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Malbec, Viogner, and other Reserves...

The actual public tasting room is tremendously large and amply filled with a variety of products, much of the usual from clothing to wine-related gadgets. But I have to admit a confession. In my hundred-and-fifty-odd winery visits, this was the first time I actually bought something in a gift shop. In a corner, away from most of the expensive bounty, was a line of tin-and-enamelware kitchen gadgets. I purchased what looked like a pots de crème set, complete with rack (I say it looked like a pots de crème set, except that it wasn't porcelain). It was $10.50 for the set and while not politically correct for real pots de crème, it will suit me just fine. Oh yeah, and I enjoyed the wine too.

2002 Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay - Classic lemon and buttery aromas. Oily mouthfeel upon entry showing dark papaya and mango. Rich, with a hint of lemon peel on the finish. $35.00

2003 Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir - Dusty, exotic aromas of incense - akin to sandalwood with a core of red fruit. Red fruit dominates the mouth entry and brightens with acidity on the mid-palate. Smoky finish. $19.00

2002 California Merlot - Black plum and brambleberry display in the initial whiff but subside to demonstrate eucalyptus on the end. Chewy, tight mouth entry that is full bodied and thick. Tad harsh on finish.  $15.00

Château St. Jean ~ 8555 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Kenwood ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-4134

Landmark Winery - 145

So I'm driving around the Kenwood area and stumble on Kaz Winery which, oddly enough, has Landmark Winery as their <ahem> landmark. Okay, that was pretty lame, I know... Landmark actually has quite a reputation and is one of those select few wineries who specialize making FIVE different Chardonnays, three different Pinot Noir, and -- oh yes -- a Syrah.

The entrance toward the Spanish-style mission building structure is elegant and rather perfectly manicured. It lies right on the main thoroughfare between the town of Sonoma and the city of Santa Rosa. Known as the community of Kenwood, it is home to a handful of some of the most prestigious Chardonnay producers in wine country.

The Landmark estate has some stunning landscaping features. The entrance itself is an archway of amethyst morning glories. Leading to the tasting room, a few steps beyond that brings visitors to a tiled outdoor fountain, hidden walkways, and a small, private picnic area.

The tasting room is itself a work of art - or at least the wall behind the tasting bar is a work of art. The Chardonnay grapevine mural truly takes one's breath away.

2002 "Courtyard" Chardonnay - 100% malo usually tells me to prepare for butter bombs. Instead, this medium-bodied, pale straw colored wine showed light tropical aromas. The mouth feel showed bright acidity and a bit of mineral on the mid-palate. $15.00

2003 Overlook Chardonnay - Their flagship white, also 100% malo, this one a bit darker in its golden hue and heftier in the nose. Butter lemon and clean aromas provided balanced, well-integrated fruit with a touch of cream. $25.00

2002 Damaris Reserve Chardonnay - Almost cloyingly rich bouquet of marshmallow and toffee. Not over oaked or buttery displaying distinct layers of mineral and defined fruit. $34.00

2002 Lorenzo Chardonnay - The richest and most full-bodied of the lot. Spicy white peach and honey framed minerals and toasted nuts. $45.00

2001 Grand Detour Pinot Noir - Warm, rich cherry aromas anticipate the complex cherry mouth entrance. Spice appears in the middle and the finish is a touch sweet. $70.00/1.5L

2002 Grand Detour Pinot Noir - Rather classic medium-bodied offering, giving well-developed red fruit flavors seamlessly integrated with earthiness that ends a bit dry. $30.00

2001 Kastania Pinot Noir - Mushroom predominates plummy fruit. The entry was a tad thin but expands into darker spice characteristics and more bright red fruit on the finish. $100.00/1.5L

2003 Steel Plow Syrah - Floral, blossomy aromas expand into spicy black liqueur. Fabulously rich, sweet nose, even though it was a bit tight. A swirl or two brought out some spice. Dark, heady mouth feel giving a hint of sweet black licorice on the back-palate with heightened acidity. Complex and caressing. $24.00

Landmark Winery ~ 101 Adobe Canyon Road ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-0053

Kaz Winery - 144

I love it when wineries are slightly off-kilter. Favorites in the past have included Gundlach-Bundschu, Bonny Doon, and Roshambo. Now I can add Kaz Winery to that list. Several weeks ago the folks at Kaz dropped me an e-mail. Seems they had been reading the blog and wanted me to give them a visit the next time I was in the Kenwood neighborhood. Well, I am pleased to say that I stumbled on them quite by accident and while I always appreciate a personal invite to a winery, sometimes I have much more fun sneaking in under the radar.

Finding Kaz takes a little bit of work. They are located on a small side road behind the Landmark Vineyard and took some hunting. There is a small metal sign (picture above) at the base of the vineyards which surround their winery. But it is small and a relatively drab color which, on an overcast day, somewhat melded into the surrounding grey atmosphere. But a few feet further at the base of the entrance, flies this bright yellow flag which, when the wind dies down enough to read what seems to be hand-drawn glyphs, reads Kaz! There was some local community tasting (having to do with Chardonnays and Pinots, I think) on the day of my visit, but despite the fact that I did not have the appropriate color bracelet on during my visit, I was still treated with the same acerbic wit as everyone else in the tasting room.

As near as I can tell, the entire business complex -- tasting room and wine-making facilities -- are all located within a single a-frame barn. Getting to the building means driving through some vineyards, past a small rural home or two, and parking on an adjacent gravel lot.

The tasting room is small and cozy and has many interesting touches. The counters are course with patterns of leaves inset deep within the rich, textured surface. "Oh, my husband, Rick, made that." the ebullient blond exclaimed. As it turns out, Rick makes a lot of things around the winery, like the wine!

Rick Kasmier and wife, Sandi, are the proprietors and with tongue firmly planted in cheek, are not only producing organic wines, but also hilarious ad campaigns, artistically enticing labels, and a line of fascinatingly flavored mustards! My only complaint lies in the information on their website; their story (and names!) are only found within a Sunset article and not readily available through their site. One other point - as these are 100% organic wines, they tend to be slightly higher in acidity. I realized that much of the adjectives that continually crept up in my notes was bright. All of the wines, overall, are bright with heightened acidity.

2004 Blusche Trachet - Made from Nebbiolo Rosso, this rosé had a sweet aroma but not overtly candy-shop sweet. With 1% residual sugar, the hint of sweetness is well-sculpted. Layered exotic spice that is subtle and smooth. Clean and bright. $15.00

2004 Trixie's Secret - Another rosé of Nebbiolo Rosso, but this one is bone dry. Still a hint of sweetness but deeper and more integrated and balanced. Clean and deep with a long developed finish. Great fun and easy to drink. $15.00

2003 Hoi Polloi Pinot Noir - Bouquet of fresh raspberry and cherry with undertones of earth and spice. Sweetish entry and a candy mid-palate. Brightens on this finish with a touch of minerality. $35.00

2000 Somwein - A blend of 60% Zinfandel, 25% Alicante Bouchet, and 15% Petite Sirah. Dusty floral aroma with some funk in the back of the nose. Sweet on the initial mouth entry but not deep. A light-bodied zinfandel blend. $30.00

2001 Flying Star - 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. Tremendously clean eucalyptus under which displays heaps of red fruit. Mostly floral on the tongue and more of those heightened acids on the finish. $32.00

2000 Klinch - 92% Syrah and 8% Alicante Bouchet. Some mint and then full, round candied dark fruit. Light thin entry and a decidedly tangy finish. $34.00

2003 Bravura, Barbera - More sweet red candy fruit on the nose. Bright, thin entry showing some candied red cinnamon with a bit of thin tin on the end. $30.00

White Port - Made from a Chardonnay. Sweet white flowers, blooming and exuding throughout a field on a hot afternoon leaving a longing, rustic spice in the back of the throat. Stunningly well-integrated and smooth. $25.00

2001 Syrah Port - Purple hyacinth flowers covered in dust. Sweet on the tongue with plummy tones. Tangy and acidic with a tease of cardamom. $30.00

Tawny Port - Made from the classic Portuguese grapes grown in Amador. Surprisingly ruby color, considering it is a tawny. Deep, dark spice with layers of nuts. Sweet entry showing jammy fruits in the mid-palate and a long finish teasing between provincial fruit and roasted hazelnut. $40.00

Kaz Winery ~ 233 Adobe Canyon Road ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-2536

 

St. Francis - 143

St. Francis Winery is one of the larger, more well-known wineries established in the Sonoma area. It is a winery that was started in the early 70s and has grown exponentially, now negotiating grapes from top-shelf growers from all over Sonoma.

As an homage to St. Francis of Assisi, for whom the winery is dedicated, the buildings are distinctly modeled after the classic California missions that speckle the state. The facilities include three separate wine-tasting bars, visitors center, and surroundings gardens. The winery hosts of a variety of events including aroma workshops and taste explorations.

They offer three different tastings; the Classic Wine Tasting is $5.00 which is much of the standard wine found in larger grocery stores such as their Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, the Reserve Wine Tasting priced at $10.00 includes many of the more obscure grapes such as Viognier and Syrah, and a special Reserve Wine & Food Pairing which occurs every hour on weekends for $20 for four tastes and four bites.

I opted for the Reserve Tasting but plan on going back for the Wine & Food Pairing.

2003 Chardonnay, Behler Reserve, Sonoma Valley - Extremely lemony color shows tremendous, almost viscous buttery entry that has layers of green apple. The finish heightens with acidity and lemon tones. $22.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Neras Family Ranch, Russian River Valley - A potentially single offering of this varietal - the grapes were offered and because St. Francis had never produced a Pinot before, instead of adding to the expense of presenting a Pinot in a properly shaped Burgundy bottle, they instead simply bottled it in a Bordeaux-shaped bottle. Classic aromas of integrated earth and cherry, although the cherry seemed darker and a bit more cooked than usual. The mouth entry was initially sweet but blossomed to demonstrate darker mushroom qualities with a spicy, mineral finish. $30.00

2002 Petite Sirah, Zichichi Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - Astonishing liqueur-like nose of a Zinfandel port. Intensely sweet nose of cooked black fruit with deep earthy notes. Balanced and well-integrated with a distinct, long finish. $40.00

2002 Zinfandel, Bacchi Vineyard, Russian River Valley - From 75 year-old vines. Jammy, smoky blackberry starts the bouquet which finishes with distinct minty eucalyptus and a depth of chocolate. Sweetish entry shows tastes of a tangy chocolate Andes mint. $35.00

2002 Zinfandel, Pagani Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - From 117 year-old vines. Lighter bodied than the previous offering, with bright, dusty violet aromas. Supple mouth feel that has a heightened acidic mid-palate but finishes long and smooth. $45.00

2001 Anthem Meritage, Sonoma Valley - A blend of Petite Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot (in no particular order or volume). Aromas of intense spicy blackberry jam and dusty floral. While the aromas were exotic and enticing, the mouth entry is more simple and basic - a slight disappointment considering the aroma. Easy with some deep, well-developed herbal qualities. $55.00

St. Francis Winery ~ 100 Pythian Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95409 ~ 707-543-7713

Blackstone - 142

Blackstone Winery is one that is prevalent in grocery stores -- at least their black label has been oft-seen by yours truly. Because of it, I was not necessarily looking forward to the visit, thinking I would be subjected to sub-standard grocery store plonk. However, there is a significantly larger production going on with a different label: Gold instead of Black.

While the winery produces the standards; Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, etc., I made a point of requesting tastings on those varietals not often seen in California tasting rooms. Looking back over my notes, the overwhelming factor that kept appearing is the "like factor" in that the Riesling was like a Sauvignon Blanc, the Viognier was like a Chardonnay, and the Dolcetto was like a Sangiovese. And I only tasted a small sampling of the wines which made me wonder how many of them were like other wines...

2003 Riesling, Cole Ranch, Mendocino County - Bone dry, supremely clean and crisp with a rich, citrus entry and more like a Sauvignon Blanc in its heightened acidity. $16.00

2002 Viognier, Russian River Valley - Mostly lemon up front in the nose but then showing some more integrated green fig aromas. Tangy entry, mineral mid-palate, and strident, stripped finish. $26.00

2003 Dolcetto, North Coast - Light in body and akin to a Sangiovese in its thin, cinnamon candy entry. The wine expands to show smoke but has a barely discernable cranberry finish. $18.00

2002 Malbec, Lake County - Inky black red color with a robust, meaty nose. Chewy entrance that dries a bit on the mid-palate. Overall a balanced wine. $18.00

Blackstone Winery ~ 8450 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-1999

Robert Biale Vineyards - 136 & WBW!

This is a truly exciting post for me. To start, it is Wine Blog Wednesday where Brother Lenn has asked us to Drink Local. The assignment this month is to go and find the winery closest to your home. To my knowledge, I am the only blogger who actually lives in Napa so I have a distinct advantage over say, someone living in Utah... But in a way it was actually a bit difficult. My initial thoughts were that I was either in close proximity to either Laird or Trefethen. I initially posted on Lenn's site that at least I didn't live next to Screaming Eagle, which would have been decidedly expensive! I started perusing GoogleMaps and asked winemaker Karen Culler about a suspicious plot of vineyards that I had never noticed before and it is truly fabulous to have access to great people who can help answer questions...

A phone call or two later and some time spent on GoogleMaps and I see that a mile-and-a-half (as the crow flies) or 2.8 driving miles away from my humble abode lies a winery about which I knew nothing, Robert Biale Vineyards. So here I get to kill two birds with one stone -- a brand new entry in my ongoing blog as well as a really cool installment to WBW! Serendipity was definitely at play here, as the Biale tasting room has been open a whopping two weeks!

The facilities are brand spanking new, but these guys are hardly the new kids on the block. Robert Biale's family started growing Zinfandel grapes in Napa in the 1920s and now specializes in local historic vineyards. A third generation Napan, Robert has a reliable and dedicated crew (if Jayme, whom I met during my visit, is any indication).

Along with producing vineyard-specific zinfandels (some from 100+ year-old vines), with Al Perry heading up winemaking, additional very cool varietals now carry the Biale moniker; Petite Sirah, Syrah, Barbera, and Sangiovese. Al works closely with the growers from whence Biale's grapes are grown and feels passionately about these grapes which are distinctly Californian.

As indicated, Jayme was the host for the day in the newly-built tasting room. It is an appointment-only establishment, but one worth seeking out, if only to hear the story of the black chicken... But go and taste and buy these wines. They are astonishing in their character and distinct disposition; worthy of aging as their depth shows, but astonishing young.

2003 Grande Zinfandel - This was the second vintage from the Rossi Vineyards produced under the Biale name. The wine is slighty cloudy dark garnet in color and at first demonstrates rich blackberry and boysonberry liqueur aromas, immediately giving way to aromas of freshly-cracked black pepper, sweet and aromatic. The mouth entry is smooth and continues the blackberry tones, but expands to reveal hints of herbs and rich, complex finish. $40.00

2002 Monte Rosso, Sonoma Valley Zinfandel - Sweet cherry nose that is distinctly berry in structure. Developed with deep floral qualities and a long, spicy finish thatis not biting or hot. The Monte Rosso is specifically 110-year old vines and the wine certainly shows its pedigree. $46.00

2002 Thomann Station Petite Sirah - From famous vineyards in St. Helena near Sutter Home, this wine is inky black red and produces a bouquet of elegant licorice, blackberry liqueur, and faint hint of ground coffee. The wine coats the tongue in a supple and velvety fashion showing some brighter acid on the front with a tease of coffee on the finish. $50.00

2002 Gaudi Carli Barbera - Very enticing dark garnet red color. Floral notes that are rustic, spicy, and elegant with a touch of candied cinnamon and a whisper of sweet anise. The entry is at first smooth, silky, and touch sweet. There is more spice on the nose than on the tongue. The acids brighten on the mid-palate and develops into a long, structured finish. $35.00

Robert Biale Vineyards ~ 4038 Big Ranch Road ~ Napa ~ CA 94558 ~ 707-257-7555

Conn Creek/Villa Mt. Eden - 127 & 128

This was one of the more difficult posting, categorically speaking. I have been driving by Conn Creek's facilities every day for almost two years and met a delightful sales rep of theirs at the Premiere Napa Valley tasting. But I did not realize that their sister winery was Villa Mt. Eden so going to Conn Creek also means going to Villa Mt. Eden. Apparently there is also a bit of confusion which I had learned earlier that Villa Mt. Eden is not associated with Mt. Eden Vineyards.

I have actually had the advantage of tasting some older Conn Creek offerings from the late 1980s and early nineties that I found quite intriguing. They have been in business since the early 1970s and produce Bordeaux varietals. The Villa Mt. Eden sister winery branches out a bit more with Zinfandel and Syrah offerings. Their websites indicate two separate winemakers; Mike McGrath for Villa Mt. Eden and Jeff McBride for Conn Creek.

Oddly, there is little information on the Villa Mt. Eden site about its genesis and I am terribly curious about the affiliation and integration between the two wineries. Two winemakers? I imagine that in close quarters, there is much more of a team effort between the two, but I am saddened there is not more information about why there are two separate labels with different winemakers.

Conn Creek Winery
2003 Sauvignon Blanc - From the Tall Trees Vineyard, Napa. Delicate and lovely with lemon peel, a touch of citrus, and clean floral notes. All this adds to a more orange flavor in the mouth that is easy and not astringent. $18.00

2001 Cabernet Franc - 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe this bottle might have been opened the day before as it showed distinct oxidized qualities of dust under the black cherry. $25.00

2001 Merlot - Tight cherry and blueberry just hide a tease of cocoa on the nose. The mouth entry is tight with mostly mineral tones. $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon - Unexciting offering of cassis and cherry with spice that seems slightly out of balance. I can't put my finger on it, but there was no integration in the few flavors that I could discern. $25.00

2001 Anthology - 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petite Verdot, and 4% Malbec. Dried cherry and dried floral aromas show at first, but are quickly overwhelmed with hot, medicinal qualities. Not as full-bodied as anticipated, herbal flavors overwhelmed the fruit. $50.00

Villa Mt. Eden Wines
2004 Chardonnay, Grand Reserve, Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley - 100% malo shows a classic offering of dark fig and rich melon with buttery tones. Fruit forward in the mouthfeel, a bit of stone fruit brightens the mid-palate and a tangy finish surprises. $23.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Grand Reserve, Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley - Candy shop aromas of sweet raspberry and tangy cranberry. Medium-bodied in the mouth, mineral qualities seem to overwhelm what fruit existed in the nose. Thins a bit, showing a metallic finish. $23.00

2001 Zinfandel, Mead Ranch Vineyard, Napa Valley - Pale red color conflicts with the port-like nose of spicy toffee and chocolate. Port-like integrated aromas show hints of blackberry and the mouthfeel is firm and structured. Spicy cinnamon finish. $25.00

1999 Syrah, Grand Reserve - from the foothills of the Sierra mountains in Nevada County. Aromas of vanilla and ground coffee with a tease of wood. Odd. Jammy mouth entry is tight that never evolves. $23.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Tall Trees Vineyard, Napa Valley - Aromas of some spice and dark fruit and then mostly dusty dark chocolate. The flavors are at first jammy but finish with green olive. $15.00

Conn Creek Winery/Villa Mt. Eden ~       8711 Silverado Trail ~       St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9100

Gundlach Bundschu - 99

By all accounts, Gundlach Bundschu, or "Gun Bun," as it is affectionately known, should have been my very first blog entry. For I can credit Gundlach Bundschu wines for opening my eyes to the world of wine which ultimately caused me to move from Southern California to the wine country. Back around the time of my 30th birthday, at Bristol Farms (an upscale grocery store) in Manhattan Beach, there was a Zinfandel and Game dinner. It is funny to me that almost a dozen years later, I remember the menu; Wild Boar with Black Voodoo Sauce, Lamb Sausages with Spinach, Raisins and an Onion Confit, and Roast Quail with Spiced Raspberry Compote. And it was there I discovered GunBun's Zinfandel. Of course this was an age of Merlot and, being so impressed with their Zin, I promptly walked in the store and bought the current release of Merlot. The next three-day weekend we had, Shawn and I drove up to the winery, joined the wine club and bought a t-shirt. I'm glad I still have the t-shirt as that label design was retired several years ago...

Upon our arrival in wine country, jobs were a bit difficult to come by and after several months of unemployment, I had to call and cancel our membership in the wine club due to poverty. "Heck, you know the wines! Why don't you come and pour in the tasting room?" I was asked. I hardly needed prodding. I still moonlight in the tasting room on occasional weekends, wanting to keep my fingers in the GunBun pie. And now it is that much more enjoyable due to a newly redecorated tasting room.

Historically, Gundlach Bundschu is the oldest family-owned winery in North America. Jacob Gundlach arrived in America from Bavaria after a year-long boat journey around Cape Horn (there was a ship-wreck en route and he almost stayed in Africa!).  Jacob hired Charles Bundschu as his accountant and with Charles marrying Jacob's sixteen-year-old daughter, Francisca, the Gundlach Bundschu name was born. It was the Bundschu line that continued and there are still four generations of Bundschus living on the property. With a little over 350 farmed acres and five different micro-climates, the winery excels in growing over a dozen varietals. The estate, known as "Rhinefarm," makes up the bulk of winery's production, however there is a modicum of grapes that are purchased. This year, for example, there are three Zinfandels; a Rhinefarm (estate grown), a Sonoma Valley, and a Morse Zin (Bob Morse being a local history professor who just happens to live on ten acres of zinfandel property).

The business was started with a German varietal, Riesling, and while it saddens me that those vines were recently pulled out due to disease, the family has maintained their German roots with the continual production of a very lovely Gewürtztraminer, made in the Alsatian style with low residual sugar.

2004 Gewürtztraminer, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Bright, effusive grapefruit and citrus aromas. Clean citrus entry with a hint of spice on the finish. $22.00

2003 Tempranillo Rosé, Rhinefarm Vineyard - A pale red with pink tints on the edges, luscious red fruit with hints of strawberry balanced with cherry tones. Easy and best served well-chilled. $18.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Dusty, dried floral aromas subside to show wild strawberry and earthy, musky qualities. Deep, complex layers show dark red fruit and dried heather. $32.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Russian River - Cranberry and dark spice start but are soon coupled with dark strawberry and vanilla. A clear, pronounced entry shows hints of earth and oak with a structured, herbal finish. $28.00

2002 Tempranillo, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Tobacco and spice and brambleberry play together in this balanced, even wine. Some coffee in the mid-palate and dark, mineral qualities on the finish. $28.00

2002 Mountain Cuvée, Rhinefarm Vinyeard - An interesting blend of 75% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% each Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Dark cherry in the nose gives way to hints of dark herbs. Still young, an easy-drinking wine that will mellow to accompany any food. $20.00

2002 Merlot, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Dried herbs and dried cherry predominate the nose. Still a bit young, dark cherry with hints of dark chocolate and coffee promise a smooth, easy drinker in a year or two. $32.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Cassis and black boysenberry aromas anticipate the dark fruit entry. A hint of dusty cocoa shows in the mid-palate and the easy finish predicts another dozen years of lovely drinking. $32.00

2003 Zinfandel, Morse - Chocolate-covered blackberry easily makes this a wine to accompany dark, bittersweet chocolate with dessert. Mineral and herbal tannins in the mid-palate shows a supple, smooth quality. $24.00

2002 Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley - Black licorice and minerals just barely hide dark, black cherry. Heightened acids are a tad astringent but I wouldn't hesitate to try this again in two or three years (only because I know how well these age). $18.00

2003 Zinfandel, Rhinefarm Vineyard - A massive, jammy fruit bomb knocks your socks off with lots of dark bramble fruit, spice, and a mocha finish. My favorite of the three. $32.00

Gundlach Bundschu ~ 2000 Denmark Street ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 707-938-5277

Hanzell - 98

It is no surprise that many are entranced with the wine country for its inherent, illusive magical qualities. Is it the mere beverage being produced? The landscape? The architecture? What is it about the wine industry (for it IS an industry!) that promotes an aura of mystique? I suppose it is why I moved here -- as a sort of spiritual quest, like Gawain searching for the Grail. I doubt a single piece of the puzzle will be found within the entirety of my blog, as I travel from winery to winery, but in visiting Hanzell, part of what I have been searching for has been found.

Locating Hanzell takes some work. After a side road is taken just outside of downtown Sonoma, a small, one-lane, unpaved road is driven until such time as you are convinced you have gone the wrong way. Then, after a gentle curve and the return of a modicum of pavement, an A-frame building makes itself known; majestic and regal, surrounded by vineyards.

Much of what makes Hanzell so magical is its phoenix-like history. The stunning building that invokes so much mystery was the cause for much trouble and consternation several years ago. Built in 1956 by the original owner, James D. Zellerbach, in 2003 the drains in the production area showed elevated levels of the chemical TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole). You can see the drains in both the upper and lower section of this picture. In a move that shocked the industry, CEO and President, Jean Arnold, spent hundreds of thousands of dollars researching the problem, limited release on wines that had to potential for taint, and rebuilt the entire production area. What could have been the death knoll to the less stalwart, Arnold refused to give up and in moving forward, has brought Hanzell back with a vengeance.

A visit to Hanzell starts with a vineyard tour with Ben Sessions. He drove me around and showed me what made their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes unique, much having to do with their locale and the cool air flow up from San Pablo bay. Being situated at 850 elevation, their neighbors immediately to the east and to the north are blocked from that cool air flow. Following in Zellerbach's Burgundian tradition, there is a